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Forsythias: Fab or Fail?

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Forsythias often get a bad rap, and I’ve never been sure why! With their brilliant yellow blooms, forsythias are – next to crocuses – among the first colors of the season, and a welcome sight after a long, cold winter like we’ve had. So why do so many people dislike this brightly colored bush? Is it simply because it’s so popular?

Let’s break down the pros and cons of forsythias and understand why they’vebecome so controversial among gardeners everywhere.

Pros:

Bright yellow blooms are a welcome site in early spring. Like crocuses and cherry blossoms, forsythias are among spring’s first flowers. Their cheery color is not only a happy sign of warmer weather to come, it also makes a great backdrop for other spring plantings, like tulips and pansies. And if you’re bored by yellow flowers, know that there’s more than just one shade of forsythia! The palette ranges from buttery to orangey.

They’re easy to care for. Forsythias love the sun, and beyond getting a few hours of direct exposure each day (six is optimal), they’re not fussy about where they’re planted. They do prefer well-drained soil but will grow in just about anything if you water them well.

There’s a lot you can do with a forsythia bush. While they’re easy enough to prune, you don’t have to prune them. Weeping varieties make a lovely addition to any garden, even after the flowers have died off. Many varieties of forsythias can be pruned into hedges (and you know how we love hedges!) and can serve any of the many purposes hedges serve.

Cons:

They’re common and everyone has them. While this is true, there’s a reason: they’re easy to grow and look so pretty in the spring! Plus, they mix well with other flowers and shrubs to create a pretty, all-season garden.

The flowers don’t last. Also true, but while deciduous, forsythias offer a simple green foliage to your garden, creating a nice backdrop for other plants. Plus, sometimes they’ll surprise you with pretty purple foliage in the fall!

They don’t serve a purpose. They don’t produce fruit for birds or offer any other benefit to indigenous wildlife. I would argue that anything you plant in your garden that isn’t invasive offers benefit. And, actually, forsythias are used medicinally. A member of the olive family, the tiny fruit of the forsythia has been used in herbal medicine to treat everything from upper respiratory infections to flu!

They take over if you don’t care for them. It’s true – forsythias can spread like crazy if you don’t stay on top of them, but they’re easy enough to tame with easy pruning. Plus, some gardeners are looking for something that spreads rapidly, perhaps to conceal an unsightly fence at the back edge of their property. Fast-growing, spreading bushes aren’t always a bad thing!

Overall, we’re pro-forsythia around here. We love their bright color, the ease with which they grow, and their versatility. But most of all, we love the first sight of them – a sure sign that the long winter is finally coming to an end.

 

The Cold, Hard Truth About Winter Damage

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When spring gardeners begin their happy work this year, they may notice some browning on their hardy evergreen plants. Rhododendrons may have dry, brown leaves. Needles on conifers may look rust or brown-colored.  Shiny holly plants look dull and droopy. This is winter burn, and it’s due to the very long, cold winter we’ve had – and especially to these late-season storms.

Thankfully spring is here, if in name only. Our plants have suffered enough! When the ground freezes, plants just can’t move water from their roots to their thirsty leaves. The result, as the University of Maryland Extension puts it, is that “leaves curl and droop, then brown from the tips and margins, giving the leaves a scorched appearance. In many cases damage occurs during the winter months, but symptoms appear in the spring as the plant begins to emerge from the winter dormant period and move into the spring growth phase.” That means that spring gardeners are usually the ones who notice and must treat winter burn.

Fortunately, winter burn is both preventable and, in most cases, treatable. As we’ve noted previously on our blog, an anti-desiccant spray can go a long way in protecting plants.

Anti-desiccant products help evergreen trees and shrubs hold onto their moisture throughout the winter months. Anti-desiccant sprays basically seal off the pores in these plants, preventing the moisture from escaping. This can help save the plants we love in Connecticut, like boxwood, rhododendron, holly, and laurel.

Anti-desiccants need to be applied just before winter – that is, before the ground freezes and while the plants are still full of the water they need to survive. The spray is essentially a polymer, which puts a glossy coating on the leaves and prevents them from releasing moisture and wilting.

While these sprays can save your plants, one spray is not usually enough. Apart from anti-desiccant products simply not lasting through the winter, these late-season freezes and snow falls often cause damage. Warm spells, or “false spring” will encourage growth, then a subsequent freeze will kill it. A second anti-desiccant treatment will protect the plant.

The Missouri Botanical Garden offers additional tips to prevent winter burn:

  • Water through early winter – one inch per week from late fall through early winter may provide adequate moisture to improve your shrub’s survival.
  • Break the wind – we don’t love the look of burlap in your garden, but it’s a great wind barrier for fragile plants. It’s especially helpful if you can’t do anti-desiccant for any reason, or if your plants are likely to be exposed to salt water.
  • Mulch – covering the roots, mulch prevents too much moisture from escaping during the winter months.

Of course, there are other ways plants can be damaged in a long, cold winter like the one we’ve had. Not all of it is true “winter burn,” but it’s harmful nonetheless.

  • Salt burn can scorch leaves and kill buds. The runoff from salt and de-icers in melted snow can also change soil composition and cause it to become compacted, which can cause problems for growing plants. To avoid salt burn, avoid piling salt-tainted snow near your plants, particularly near roots. If it can’t be avoided, water generously to flush the area of salt once the spring thaw hits. You may also want to consider replacing salt and de-icers with more environmentally-friendly sand or sawdust.
  • Frost damage can occur when plants are pruned late in the season, and new growth appears just as frost hits. Additional damage can occur if a frost occurs in spring, after warmer weather has encouraged new buds. New growth will turn brown or black, and eventually wither and fall off. More extensive damage can be pruned away. Most plants will survive.
  • Broken or damaged branches can occur as the result of heavy wind, ice or snow. In these cases, it’s best to wait until the end of the season to remove the damaged limbs, unless they present a hazard. In many cases, you may need a tree professional to handle the removal.

In every case, your best bet for healthy plants that weather the winter is to choose trees and shrubs that thrive in Connecticut’s temperate climate. A hardy plant will always have improved odds for success. Taking preventative measures like applying anti-desiccant will also help, as will ongoing maintenance, from fertilization to regular, well-timed pruning.

If you do have damaged plants, please contact us right away with any concerns. Damaged shrubs and trees are always more susceptible to disease and infestation, so we may want to take additional measures to care for them before the warm weather arrives.

As always, if you have any questions about the care of your garden’s plants, feel free to contact me.

 

Much Ado About Hedges

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When you think of hedges, what do you think of? Tall, natural privacy screens? Mazes? English gardens? There are so many uses for hedges! They can divide your garden into discrete sections. They can replace a fence to border your property. They can be styled into mazes and other interesting features.

If I’m excited about hedges, it’s because I honestly think they’re fascinating. Think about some hedges from pop culture: the maze in Harry Potter and the Goblet of Fire, from Disney’s Alice in Wonderland, or even the huge, frozen one in The Shining.  The popular Over the Hedge kids’ movies from the last decade will come to mind for some. And of course, Frances Hodgson Burnett’s Secret Garden, which was surrounded by a “laurel-hedged walk.”

hedges, connecticut hedges, hedge

Hedges have an interesting history, too, dating back literally thousands of years to Roman times, where they were used as everything from estate boundaries to the first lines of defense against invasion:

Hedges have been used as field boundaries in England since the times of the Romans. Excavations at Farmoor (Oxon) reveals Roman hedges made of thorn. The Anglo-Saxons also used hedgerows extensively, and many that were used as estate boundaries still exist. Although these early hedges were used as field enclosures or to mark the boundaries of one person’s property, there was no systematic planting of hedges in England until the first enclosure movement of the 13th century.

While England may be the historical home of the hedge, France was also home to some famous hedges, including a labyrinth at Versailles that was actually designed by the author of some of the world’s best-known fairy tales. Austria’s Hapsburg palaces also features hedge mazes, and the gardens at the Vatican display some stunning hedges that frame various plantings. Hedges are used similarly at the famous Mirabelle Gardens in Salzburg, Austria.

Of course, it’s not just palaces and cathedrals that use hedges so artistically. Homes all over the US put hedges to beautiful use, bordering properties, framing other plantings, or guiding visitors along pathways. Across the country, we try to replicate the English garden (like this California vineyard) or come up with unique ways to use these versatile plants.

If you’re thinking about adding hedges to your property, there are a number of types to consider. We’ll walk through some of the most commonly used varieties and share some important points to consider:

  • Boxwood – by far the most popular variety, Boxwood is the hedge of choice for mazes and topiaries. This hardy evergreen can grow up to 20 feet tall and can withstand frequent shearing. That makes it easy to keep neat no matter how sculptural you get with your hedge design!
  • Ilex – a popular family of hedge that includes holly, ilex is best known for its glossy, dark-green leaves and red berries. Untended, some varieties can grow up to 80 feet, but it’s slower-growing and easy to shape. Its spiky leaves make it a great deterrent for intruders, and many homeowners choose this hedge to plant under low windows. Evergreen ilex is also hardy enough to tolerate cold winters well.
  • Privet hedge – dense foliage makes the privet hedge a great choice for privacy. These slow-growing plants are easy to grow and come in a number of varieties. All types bear black berries and then white flowers, but not all privet hedges are evergreen; some varieties will lose their leaves in winter. These sun-loving hedges grow up to 15 feet tall.
  • Euonymus – a great alternative to boxwood, euonymus comes in many varieties, but not all are ideal for hedging. These plants are known largely for their eye-popping color, reflected in names like “burning bush” and “golden euonymus.” A less colorful variety known as “green boxwood” is considered great for hedging. Because there are so many kinds of euonymus, height, care and appropriateness for hedging varies greatly.
  • Laurel – laurel is a beautiful evergreen that is ideal for hedges. It can be cut back frequently and hard – down to the stump – and it will still grow back. It features dense, glossy leaves, and it can grow in nearly any light and most soil types.
  • Yew (taxus) – both slow- and low-growing, yew is another great alternative to traditional boxwood. It’s evergreen and very hardy, but it does require a well-drained soil. Yew can withstand wind, shade and cold, but will not survive a wet winter.

These are just a few options for hedges. There’s a whole range of conifers, and many, many other varieties to consider. Beyond using hedges as tall, property dividers, I hope you’ll consider the broad range of purposes these versatile plants can serve. Have a look on Pinterest and other sites, and allow yourself to be inspired by the magical effects you can achieve when you get creative with hedges!

 

 

Interested in learning more? Contact us about caring for your hedges.

Flower of the Month: Amaryllis

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Among the many gifts we give and receive over the holidays, my favorites are always the living ones: The poinsettias, the Christmas cacti, the fragrant paperwhite narcissus. The one I’ve always loved best though is the amaryllis. These easy-to-grow bulbs yield gigantic, trumpet-shaped flowers that come in shades of red, orange, pink, peach, white, pale green. There are over 600 named varieties available – including some with striped and variegated blooms. They make beautiful center pieces and bouquets, and they can bloom year after year.

About Amaryllis

The name amaryllis comes from the Greek word for “sparkling.” The flower got its name from the myth of Amaryllis, who fell in love the handsome young shepherd Alteo. He did not return her affection. Amaryllis went to the Oracle of Delphi for guidance, and the Oracle advised her to stand outside Alteo’s house each night and pierce her heart with a golden arrow. Amaryllis did this for 29 nights, and on the 30th night, all the blood she had shed on the path to his door blossomed into beautiful blood-red flowers. She picked a bouquet, and brought them to Alteo, who fell in love with her and her flowers. Her heart was instantly healed, and they lived happily ever after.red amaryllis flowers

The word amaryllis itself is derived from the Greek words for horse and star, which ties nicely into the meanings it holds for us today. The flower became a symbol of strength and determination in the Victorian era, due to its impressive height and sturdiness. It also symbolizes success and is frequently given as a gift to honor an achievement.

Amaryllis became a symbol of the season as the result of the story that St. Joseph’s staff burst into blooms when it was announced that he would be husband of Mary. As a result, the St. Joseph Staff hybrid amaryllis is one of the most popular at Christmas time. It’s also true that the huge red blooms of hybrids like Red Lion fit perfectly into most holiday décor. (There’s even a Christmas Gift hybrid, reflecting how popular these bulbs have become!)

Caring for Amaryllis

Apart from those amazing flowers, the best thing about amaryllis is how simple it is to grow. Indoors, the bulbs can be easily forced into bloom. They don’t even need soil! Here’s how to get the most out of your bulb:

  • If your bulb has not already been potted, place it in a 6”- 8” pot.
  • We recommend planting in a good quality potting soil. Pack the soil gently around the bulb, leaving about one-third of the pointy end out of the soil. (No soil? You can also plant the bulb in pebbles or small stones, filling a vase or bowl to the top of the stones. You’ll still need to keep one-third of the bulb above the surface, and refill the water when it drops below the line of stones. You may want to pack the stones in around the bulb to keep it anchored.)
  • Leave your amaryllis in spot that gets lots of bright, indirect sunlight.
  • Water it sparingly. The soil should only ever be slightly moist.
  • Depending on the age of your bulb, it will typically take four to six weeks for your amaryllis to start blooming.
  • Once it starts, you’ll see stems first, then leaves. A bloom will appear on each stem. Amaryllis will flower for up to eleven weeks. Pro Tip: As the stems start growing, rotate the pot regularly so that different stems get the sunlight. This will ensure the plant grows evenly!
  • When your amaryllis is done blooming, cut the stalks down to about an inch from the bulb.
  • Continue to water as usual, and occasionally treat it with some houseplant fertilizer.amaryllis in pots
  • Starting in late summer, water the bulb less frequently, and let any leaves that have grown die back.
  • When the pot has dried out completely, store the dormant bulb in a cool, dark space for at least eight weeks.
  • When you’re ready, repot your bulb and start the process of enjoying your amaryllis all over again!

Amaryllis is an easy way to bring color and joy into your home for the holidays. If you love plants as much as we do at Connecticut Green, we know you’ll enjoy the bright, exuberant display these flowers bring just in time for the holidays!

https://pixabay.com/en/amaryllis-flower-blossom-bloom-red-1860710/

Real or Artificial Christmas Trees? A Very Merry Holiday Dilemma! [Infographic]

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There are many factors to consider when making the choice, from convenience to appearance to environmental impact. Below, we’ve broken them all down in our nifty infographic to help you decide. (Scroll to the bottom for full text with helpful links!)

Real vs. Artificial Christmas Trees - Connecticut Green Helps You Decide (Infographic)

The real vs fake Christmas tree debate has been a battle for the ages. Remember when Charlie Brown bought that sad little evergreen instead of the pink foil tree Lucy wanted him to buy? Remember how everyone railed on him for that? With a little love, the tiny tree turned out to be alright, but Charlie might have saved himself a lot of grief by going with the artificial one.

That seems to be a choice many of us are faced with each year: do we go for the authentic Christmas tree experience – maybe even cutting down our own tree, trimming branches and cleaning up needles all season? Or do we make it easy on ourselves and buy a boxed tree that doesn’t leave needles all over the car (and the house) and comes with the lights already installed? There are many factors to consider when making the choice, from convenience to appearance to environmental impact. Below, we’ve broken them all down to help you decide.

 

 

Genuine Trees Artificial Trees
Cost:
Real trees tend to cost more over time, as they need to be purchased year after year. In the New York Metro area, trees average around $75 – and higher – depending on the type and size. You’ll also have to pay for a stand and lights – items that are often included with the fakes. You can spend as much as you like on an artificial tree! Big box stores have them for as little as $50, and prices can head into the thousands for premium, pre-lit trees. The advantage here is that you’re only paying once.
Verdict: Over time, a high quality artificial tree will probably prove to be the better value.
Convenience:
Unless you’re paying for delivery and setup, there’s nothing convenient about a natural Christmas tree, unfortunately. Getting the tree onto your car and lugging into the house can be downright awkward; getting it into the stand isn’t easy either. There’s also the business of trimming awkward branches and cleaning up fallen needles. And don’t forget – your tree will need to be watered regularly to keep it vibrant and safe. This is where the artificial trees easily beat out the real ones. Most faux trees come in a box that will easily fit most cars, then assemble easily. Even the lights come preinstalled on many battling tangled strands or worrying about even distribution! Plus, there’s no need to worry about dragging the tree out to the curb, and then vacuuming up the mess of needles behind it either. These trees will go back into their boxes and wait in the basement or attic til next Christmas.
Verdict: The artificial tree is the hands-down winner when it comes to convenience!
Look, feel and scent:
There’s nothing quite like a genuine evergreen tree, is there? While the synthetics have done a great job of simulating the appearance of a real tree, there always seems to be something a little “too perfect,” perhaps too symmetrical about their look and feel. And let’s face it: nothing matches the scent of a real tree, either. Artificial trees have come a long way and, if you’re willing to pay a little more, you can find a tree that looks a whole lot like the real thing. Miss that piney smell? It’s easy enough to replicate with scented ornaments. One bonus of the fake tree? Any branch can handle any ornament.
Verdict: For look, feel and scent, you really can’t beat a genuine evergreen tree. (Unless you’re willing to spend a small fortune on really good fake – and scented ornaments!)
Safety:
Real trees can be a fire hazard if they’re not well cared for. Your tree should be kept for no more than four weeks, and it must be watered daily. Keep trees away from candles, fireplaces and other heat sources, and remove the tree as soon as needles begin to drop – that means it’s dried out. And of course, always turn lights off at night and when you leave the house. (There are more smart safety tips here.) You may think artificial trees are automatically safer, but that’s not necessarily true! Cheap materials and faulty lights can make a fake tree as dangerous as a dried-out authentic one. Look for flame retardant materials and ensure that any lighting you use is UL listed. As with real trees, don’t leave lights on when you’re not around – and always make sure your smoke detectors are in working order.
Verdict: It’s a tie. Both real and artificial trees can present very real fire hazards. Be smart, use good-quality lights, make sure all wires are in good shape, and never leave lights on when you go to bed or leave the house! More common-sense fire safety tips here.
Environmental Impact:
Real Christmas trees may seem on the surface to be wasteful, but in fact, most are grown specifically to become Christmas trees! If you purchase a tree from a local farm, there’s even more benefit because you’re saving the fuel it would have taken to ship the tree to your locale. Furthermore, real Christmas trees can be mulched or recycled since they’re (obviously) composed of natural materials. A good quality artificial tree can last for a decade or more, minimizing the environmental impact of a tree made from inorganic material. For the health and safety of your family and the planet, seek out trees that are made from non-PVC materials. Concerned shoppers would be wise to seek out trees constructed in the Good Ol’ USA to avoid the impact of shipping across the planet.
Verdict: Real trees are the best way to go green. Locally grown trees are the best bet, and if you can compost or recycle your tree, so much the better. If you must go artificial, opt for a tree that was constructed on our shores of non-PVC materials – and try to hold onto it for at least ten years! More information on making the greenest Christmas tree choice here.

Ultimately, the best tree for you will be the one that fits your budget and your priorities. Whatever you decide, be thoughtful, be safe…and be merry! Enjoy your tree and your Christmas with family and friends, and have a wonderful holiday season!

Pear Trellis Rust: A new concern in Connecticut

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If you’re looking for a beautiful, low-maintenance tree for your property, pear trees seem to fare particularly well in Connecticut.  Pear trees bloom in spring with pretty white blossoms that often yield edible fruit in fall, so while there’s some work involved, there’s great payoff!

Pears are a great choice for a fruit tree because, historically, they have tended to be more disease- and insect-resistant than other fruit trees, including apple trees. There is also a tremendous range of varieties to choose from, whether your priority is size or the type of fruit you prefer. pear trellis rust

Unfortunately, this year, pear growers are experiencing some unfamiliar challenges. A new blight known as “Pear Trellis Rust” has been affecting trees all over our area. This disease, which effects most kinds of pear trees and juniper trees, is new to New England, but has been seen before in parts of the US, and is common in both Canada and Europe.

Pear Trellis Rust is an unusual fungus in that it requires two hosts – pear trees and juniper trees – to complete its life cycle. Through a complex process, mold spores that grow on junipers can only infect pear trees, and vice versa. The damage for pear trees is far more obvious and more devastating than they are for the juniper. The University of Connecticut shared a blog post about the fungus that describes the infection in clear detail:

In the spring, spores are produced in orange gelatinous masses on galls on the juniper host.  These spores infect newly expanding pear leaves.  Young fruit and twigs can also be infected.

Symptoms on pear begin as yellow to orange spots on the leaves.  Spots may enlarge and become bright orange-red during the summer. By midsummer, tiny black pimple-like dots will appear in the center of the spots on the upper surface of the leaf. In late summer, brown blister-like swellings will appear on the lower leaf surface just below these. Acorn-shaped fruiting bodies called aecia arise from these swellings. The sides of the aecia split open forming a trellis-like structure that gives this disease its common name. Spores (aeciospores) from the aecia are released until leaf drop and cause new infections on susceptible junipers.  Juniper twig infections result in small, spindle-shaped galls that often cause little damage to the juniper. Galls produce gelatinous masses of spores each spring for several years beginning the second spring after infection and these spores infect pear, completing the life cycle.

Treatments for this blight are limited. In some cases, standard treatments for leaf rust have worked. However, this can’t be relied upon 100 percent of the time, much to our dismay.

Here’s what does work:

  • Removing one host is the only way to completely “cure” this disease. Consult a reputable arborist to handle the job effectively.
  • If removal can’t occur immediately, in the meantime, prune infected branches on both junipers and pears as soon as possible.
  • Destroy all infected debris that has been removed from both trees.
  • To protect junipers, remove branches, leaves and twigs areas from pears before mold spores form, as this is how the infection spreads.

Prevention is much easier by comparison. For starters, plant only disease-resistant junipers. Cultivars of Juniperus squamata, J. horizontalis, and J. communis are recommended. (A good garden center or arborist will be able to help!)

It’s also recommended, if you must plant both pears and junipers, that they be at least 1000 feet apart. For many property owners, this means choosing one or the other – and insuring that neighbors within 1000-foot range haven’t planted junipers if you were hoping to plant pears.

Generally, pear trees are easy to grow and maintain, and – as long as there aren’t any junipers growing nearby! – they’re hardy and resistant to most diseases and insects. There are beautiful varieties of ornamental pears like the Cleveland Select, and it’s worth noting that fruit-bearing trees like Bosc, Beurre D’anjou and Bartlett  can also be grown successfully in Connecticut. With that in mind, here are a few tips for planting and growing a healthy pear tree:

  • Choose carefully: Pear trees can get pretty big, so consider both full-sized and dwarf varieties.
  • For fruit, plant two or three pear varieties close together. Pears need cross-pollination to bear fruit! In order for most pear trees to be successful, they need to be planted in pairs (pairs of pears!) because they don’t self-pollenate like other trees. Some growers recommend planting three varieties in proximity to each other for the best odds of success. Even pears that are sold as self-fertile often perform better when planted adjacent to another pear variety
  • Most pear trees can be planted in fall, before the ground freezes.
  • Pears are fine with most soil types, although, as with most plants, they’ll do best in well-drained soil.
  • Plan ahead when choosing a spot to plant your tree! Pears prefer full sun for at least six to eight hours per day, even after they’ve reached maturity.
  • Pears do require careful pruning pretty much from the day they’re planted, so be sure to read up or ask about the type of pruning your tree needs. Fertilization should only be necessary about once year.

Keep in mind, even if you follow instructions to the letter, it will still take three to five years to grow your first crop of pears if you’ve opted for an edible variety! They’re not a lot of work, though, and between the beauty of the tree and the sweetness of the fruit, pear trees are well worth the effort.